Dahl, Verena, Friedrich, Achim, Meyer, Juergen, Venzmer, Joachim, Belkoura, Lhoussaine, Strey, Reinhard, Mayer, Christian, Michel, Raphael ORCID: 0000-0001-9713-0669 and Gradzielski, Michael (2018). Structural Analysis of a Modern o/w-Emulsion Stabilized by a Polyglycerol Ester Emulsifier and Consistency Enhancers. Colloid Interfac., 2 (1). BASEL: MDPI. ISSN 2504-5377

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Abstract

The aim of our work was to study the structure of a typical modern cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion (o/w-emulsion), based on the emulsifier polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate/stearate and glycerylstearate/stearyl alcohol as consistency enhancer. We have used a systematic approach building up the cosmetic emulsion step by step, characterizing all systems by using Small Angle Neutron Scattering (SANS), Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC), Freeze Fracture Transmission Electron Microscopy (FF-TEM), light microscopy and rheology. The starting point was the pure emulsifier in water, which was shown to form lamellar stacked bilayers with a spacing of 7 nm, coexisting with polydisperse unilamellar vesicles in the sub-mu m range. Upon addition of consistency enhancer, also multilamellar vesicles could be obtained. Then, oil has been added stepwise, until finally a complete cosmetic o/w-emulsion was obtained. In the final emulsion, oil droplets with sizes in the mu m range are surrounded by multiple, irregularly spaced bilayer structures and vesicles. Approximately 30% of the water present in the system shows a restricted mobility (encapsulated water) according to PFG-NMR. Crucial for the viscosity build-up is the presence of the oil droplets; a cream-like consistency is obtained by steric interaction of oil droplets and crystalline bilayer structures in the aqueous phase of the emulsion.

Item Type: Journal Article
Creators:
CreatorsEmailORCIDORCID Put Code
Dahl, VerenaUNSPECIFIEDUNSPECIFIEDUNSPECIFIED
Friedrich, AchimUNSPECIFIEDUNSPECIFIEDUNSPECIFIED
Meyer, JuergenUNSPECIFIEDUNSPECIFIEDUNSPECIFIED
Venzmer, JoachimUNSPECIFIEDUNSPECIFIEDUNSPECIFIED
Belkoura, LhoussaineUNSPECIFIEDUNSPECIFIEDUNSPECIFIED
Strey, ReinhardUNSPECIFIEDUNSPECIFIEDUNSPECIFIED
Mayer, ChristianUNSPECIFIEDUNSPECIFIEDUNSPECIFIED
Michel, RaphaelUNSPECIFIEDorcid.org/0000-0001-9713-0669UNSPECIFIED
Gradzielski, MichaelUNSPECIFIEDUNSPECIFIEDUNSPECIFIED
URN: urn:nbn:de:hbz:38-193696
DOI: 10.3390/colloids2010003
Journal or Publication Title: Colloid Interfac.
Volume: 2
Number: 1
Date: 2018
Publisher: MDPI
Place of Publication: BASEL
ISSN: 2504-5377
Language: English
Faculty: Unspecified
Divisions: Unspecified
Subjects: no entry
Uncontrolled Keywords:
KeywordsLanguage
SMALL-ANGLE NEUTRON; X-RAY; ELECTRON-MICROSCOPY; CREAMS; SCATTERING; MICROEMULSIONS; SALVES; WATERMultiple languages
Chemistry, PhysicalMultiple languages
Refereed: Yes
URI: http://kups.ub.uni-koeln.de/id/eprint/19369

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