Universität zu Köln

Tomalla, Ulrike (2012). Ladies in Dresses. Englische Modegrafiken aus pocket memorandum books 1750-1800. PhD thesis, Universität zu Köln.

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Abstract

Ladies in Dresses ist die erste umfassende Studie über Modegrafiken aus pocket memorandum books, die seit Beginn der 1750er Jahre regelmäßig in England erschienen. Pocket memorandum books, kleine Kalendertaschenbücher für Frauen, stellten ein ausnehmend beliebtes Druckerzeugnis im 18. Jahrhundert dar. Auf einzigartige Weise vereinten die jährlich publizierten Büchlein unterschiedliche Formen von Gebrauchs- und Verhaltensliteratur. Die schwarz-weißen Modegrafiken wurden ihnen gegenüber dem Frontispiz beigebunden und trugen maßgeblich zum Erfolg der Büchlein bei. Ihrer großen Beliebtheit zum Trotz haben pocket memorandum books und ihre Modegrafiken erstaunlicherweise kaum das Interesse der Forschung geweckt. Insbesondere Fragen nach den bildlichen Eigenschaften der Modegrafiken wurden bisher nicht gestellt. Dabei weisen die Darstellungen eine Gestaltungsweise auf, die großes Potential hierfür birgt. Die vorliegende Studie zielt darauf ab, die Modegrafiken aus pocket memorandum books aus ihrem Schattendasein herauszuholen und sie als Bilder ausführlich zu untersuchen. Nach der Vorstellung und historischen Einordnung des Materials stehen die Bildanalysen der Modegrafiken im Mittelpunkt. Hierauf aufbauend wird nach der Funktion der Grafiken gefragt und abschließend ihre Bedeutung erörtert. Im Verlauf der Studie zeigt sich, dass die Modegrafiken aus pocket memorandum books in mehrerlei Hinsicht eine bedeutende Stellung einnehmen: innerhalb der Geschichte der Modegrafik ebenso wie im Hinblick auf ihre traditionsreichen und zugleich innovativen Bildlösungen und nicht zuletzt hinsichtlich der im 18. Jahrhundert stattfindenden gattungssystematischen Umwälzungen. In engem Bezug zur Geistes- und Sozialgeschichte und durch zahlreiche Vergleiche mit Werken der Porträtmalerei zeichnet Ladies in Dresses ein spannendes Bild der Modegrafiken aus pocket memorandum books und leistet damit einen Beitrag zur Kunst- und Kulturgeschichte Großbritanniens und zur Bilderfrage im 18. Jahrhundert.

Item Type:	Thesis (PhD thesis)
Translated abstract:	Abstract Language Ladies in Dresses is the first comprehensive study of English fashion plates from pocket memorandum books for women. Derived from almanacs, pocket memorandum books were issued annually from the 1750s and offered an array of information ranging from useful to instructive texts: they contained a diary with cash columns and columns for appointments and remarks as well as essays, poems, songs, carriage rates and cookery recipes to name but a few. The fashion content usually consisted of one or two fashion plates that were mounted opposite the frontispiece, these contributed decisively to the success of the little books. Pocket memorandum books for women appeared under numerous titles during the second half of the eighteenth century until at least the early decades of the nineteenth. Despite their popularity, pocket memorandum books and fashion plates have been largely neglected by academic research - especially in the field of art history. However, particularly with regard to their pictorial qualities, the fashion plates show high potential. The aim of this study is to explore this forgotten genre and to assess fashion plates from pocket memorandum books as images. In so doing, this study addresses issues ranging from a discussion of the role of fashion plates in general to detailed pictorial analysis. It demonstrates that our perception of fashion plates from pocket memorandum books is incomplete without an understanding of the medium in which they appeared and of their particular role within the history of the fashion plate. The contents and publishers of the books, the artists of the plates and the economic conditions of their publication shape how fashion plates from pocket memorandum books have been read. An analysis of these paratextual and peritextual aspects sets the frame for an in depth investigation of the pictorial substance. A detailed study of the plates serves to illustrate specific visual types and to demonstrate their thematic diversity. It raises questions about the background settings, the gestures of the fashion figures and the motifs of the images taking into account their proximity to contemporary portraiture as well as their relationship with behavioural and social developments. The contents of the images of fashion plates and their function are examined in relation to the needs and ideals of their audience. This section is followed by an exploration of the impact of the pictorial language of fashion plates from pocket memorandum books on various other forms of representation such as illustrations from conduct books, nineteenth century fashion illustrations or fashion photography of the 1950s. Finally, before providing a summary of the primary findings, the fashion plates will be evaluated within the larger art historical context focusing on the reorganisation of the picture genres in the wake of modernity. Ladies in Dresses offers important insights into both innovations and traditions in fashion plates from pocket memorandum books, and traces the meanings and values behind these images. It draws on a wealth of visual material and socio-cultural aspects alike providing an exciting picture of the genre. English
Creators:	Creators Email ORCID ORCID Put Code Tomalla, Ulrike ladiesindresses@gmx.de UNSPECIFIED UNSPECIFIED
URN:	urn:nbn:de:hbz:38-49952
Date:	2012
Language:	German
Faculty:	Faculty of Arts and Humanities
Divisions:	Faculty of Arts and Humanities > Fächergruppe 1: Kunstgeschichte, Musikwissenschaft, Medienkultur und Theater, Linguistik, IDH > Kunsthistorisches Institut
Subjects:	Social sciences English The arts
Uncontrolled Keywords:	Keywords Language Modegrafik, Modegrafikgeschichte, Modeillustration, pocket memorandum books, pocket books, Almanach, Großbritannien, England, 18. Jahrhundert, Porträtmalerei, Genremalerei, Konversationsstück, Frauen, Geistes- und Sozialgeschichte, country house, politeness, Verhaltensratgeber, Empfindsamkeit, Mode, Bildgattungen, Bilderordnung, Arthur Devis, Johan Zoffany, Anthony van Dyck, Thomas Gainsborough, Joshua Reynolds German fashion plates, fashion engravings, fashion illustration, history of the fashion plate, pocket memorandum books, pocket books, almanac, Great Britain, England, 18th century, portrait painting, genre painting, conversation piece, women, social and cultural history, country house, politeness, conduct literature, sensibility, fashion, type of picture, genre of art, pictorial discourse, Arthur Devis, Johan Zoffany, Anthony van Dyck, Thomas Gainsborough, Joshua Reynolds English
Date of oral exam:	11 July 2012
Referee:	Name Academic Title Gaus, Joachim Prof. Dr. Frohne, Ursula Prof. Dr.
Refereed:	Yes
URI:	http://kups.ub.uni-koeln.de/id/eprint/4995