Universität zu Köln

Dahl, Verena, Friedrich, Achim, Meyer, Juergen, Venzmer, Joachim, Belkoura, Lhoussaine, Strey, Reinhard, Mayer, Christian, Michel, Raphael ORCID: 0000-0001-9713-0669 and Gradzielski, Michael (2018). Structural Analysis of a Modern o/w-Emulsion Stabilized by a Polyglycerol Ester Emulsifier and Consistency Enhancers. Colloid Interfac., 2 (1). BASEL: MDPI. ISSN 2504-5377

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Abstract

The aim of our work was to study the structure of a typical modern cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion (o/w-emulsion), based on the emulsifier polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate/stearate and glycerylstearate/stearyl alcohol as consistency enhancer. We have used a systematic approach building up the cosmetic emulsion step by step, characterizing all systems by using Small Angle Neutron Scattering (SANS), Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC), Freeze Fracture Transmission Electron Microscopy (FF-TEM), light microscopy and rheology. The starting point was the pure emulsifier in water, which was shown to form lamellar stacked bilayers with a spacing of 7 nm, coexisting with polydisperse unilamellar vesicles in the sub-mu m range. Upon addition of consistency enhancer, also multilamellar vesicles could be obtained. Then, oil has been added stepwise, until finally a complete cosmetic o/w-emulsion was obtained. In the final emulsion, oil droplets with sizes in the mu m range are surrounded by multiple, irregularly spaced bilayer structures and vesicles. Approximately 30% of the water present in the system shows a restricted mobility (encapsulated water) according to PFG-NMR. Crucial for the viscosity build-up is the presence of the oil droplets; a cream-like consistency is obtained by steric interaction of oil droplets and crystalline bilayer structures in the aqueous phase of the emulsion.

Item Type:	Journal Article
Creators:	Creators Email ORCID ORCID Put Code Dahl, Verena UNSPECIFIED UNSPECIFIED UNSPECIFIED Friedrich, Achim UNSPECIFIED UNSPECIFIED UNSPECIFIED Meyer, Juergen UNSPECIFIED UNSPECIFIED UNSPECIFIED Venzmer, Joachim UNSPECIFIED UNSPECIFIED UNSPECIFIED Belkoura, Lhoussaine UNSPECIFIED UNSPECIFIED UNSPECIFIED Strey, Reinhard UNSPECIFIED UNSPECIFIED UNSPECIFIED Mayer, Christian UNSPECIFIED UNSPECIFIED UNSPECIFIED Michel, Raphael UNSPECIFIED orcid.org/0000-0001-9713-0669 UNSPECIFIED Gradzielski, Michael UNSPECIFIED UNSPECIFIED UNSPECIFIED
URN:	urn:nbn:de:hbz:38-193696
DOI:	10.3390/colloids2010003
Journal or Publication Title:	Colloid Interfac.
Volume:	2
Number:	1
Date:	2018
Publisher:	MDPI
Place of Publication:	BASEL
ISSN:	2504-5377
Language:	English
Faculty:	Unspecified
Divisions:	Unspecified
Subjects:	no entry
Uncontrolled Keywords:	Keywords Language SMALL-ANGLE NEUTRON; X-RAY; ELECTRON-MICROSCOPY; CREAMS; SCATTERING; MICROEMULSIONS; SALVES; WATER Multiple languages Chemistry, Physical Multiple languages
Refereed:	Yes
URI:	http://kups.ub.uni-koeln.de/id/eprint/19369